We Like To Ride The Hard Way

Day 2 May 27 Kasauli To Sunder Nagar 203 KM
The incline of the mountain was so steep I can't even see the valley below it. And there were no trees on the side only sharp rocks. The thought of our mangled body falling down the cliff kept flashing on my mind. I gritted my teeth as Sandy drove the bike through another blind curve. I did a mental calculation on the chances of survival if we would fall on that mountain. Then I thought," What chances. No one can survive falling down there at all."
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As we drive on I tried to figure out which mountain would be less or more dangerous to fall on.

I dubbed these route as the Pagal Road of Sunder Nagar.

If I thought that riding for eight hours continuously was long ( as we did the previous day ) I was underestimating the word long. Riding for more than twelve hours on this day, gave a new definition to the phrase " long (very long) and winding road ". I felt like I had been on that road forever. Like I was born on that road. Like I spent whole of my life on that road. And At the end of the ride, (when it did end) I had thought of ten thousand names for pain. And Fear. The zigzaging roads on the side of the mountain made Kennon road in Bagiou, (Philippines) like a cake walk.

The day begun pleasantly enough as we made our ascent to Shimla. Although the road was busy on both side with coming and going vehicles of tourists and locals, we were cruising on a good speed. I particularly enjoy the sights of colorful houses and hotels precariously perched on the lush mountain side. The breeze was cool and route extremely scenic. The bags, the bike, my husband and I were in perfect harmony. The day couldn't have been better. Until we reached Shimla. At 7100 ft, Shimla had been a favourite destination for the locals. And everyone in India seemed to have decided to visit Shimla on that day. I have never seen so many people in my life. Or so I thought. It was worse in Manali. It was completely impossible to move around anywhere especially towards the route going to Manali. After asking for directions we headed downwards to an alternative but longer ( much longer) route to Manali. Nadeem has also not been in this road before. So nobody in our group know exactly where to go

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After a few kilometers and a few turns, we were suddenly riding on dirt roads. As we kept on ascending we completely left the lush mountain side and was entering a dry barren landscape. The road was getting narrower and curving sharply in unending loops. We then reached the top of a lone mountain, towering over everything. I tried to look down but looked away immediately. " Oh shit!" I muttered to myself, silently. The incline of the mountain was so steep I could not even see the valley below it. And there were no trees on the side only sharp rocks. The thought of our mangled body falling down the cliff kept flashing on my mind. I gritted my teeth as Sandy drove the bike through another blind curve. I did a mental calculation on the chances of survival if we would fall on that mountain. Then I thought," What chances. No one can survive falling down there at all".

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" That looks so dangerous." Sandy blurted out softly looking at the steep and narrow roads ahead of us. I laughed, feeling relieved. I thought I was the only who was getting scared. We could also see more of the same snaking roads on the adjoining mountains ahead. As we drive on I tried to figure out which mountain would be less or more dangerous to fall on.

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After descending for five km Sandy and Nadeem decided to stopped for a moment. We could see a river from up there.

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" These roads are too much!" Nadeem exclaimed as he got down from the bike.

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"I think that's Satluj river." Sandy remarked pointing to the river below.

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" Are the roads ever going to be better? " I asked them while stretching my legs. My whole body was singing with pain.

" I think the roads are only going to be worse." Nadeem replied.

And it were. A few times we had to stop while waiting for the road laborers to finish putting tar on the road. My first thought was, " What now? Are we turning back? This seems to be the end of the road. " But we only went on and on endlessly.

After five hours we descended. On the way down, the landscape turned green again. We passed by a scarlet area with flaming red trees down towards the bridge where Sutluj river was. We debated whether there was a forest fire or if the foliage was naturally that way.

It was amazing to see the river closely after seeing it on top of the mountain. It made me realize how far down we went. Up there it looked like a thin white line. I looked up to gaze at the mountains where we descended from. It towers mightily over everything, almost reaching the sky. I had never seen such tall mountains in my life.

We parked the bike and hang out by the bridge for a while. And enjoyed the cool breeze coming from the water.The flow of the river was very strong, cascading rapidly over big boulders scattered on the river bed. It was powerful enough to irrigate the whole town.

Slightly ascending again we scouted for a place to eat which was not an easy task as the whole area was deserted. After thirty minutes we chanced upon a dhaba but they only served tea. Some locals who were having tea told us that there was a hotel with a restaurant, near by.

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The place was surprisingly fancy looking. A charming cluster of small summer houses amidst a colorful flower garden. The restaurant was neat and upscale. Food was decent .We had dal and roti as always but a side dish of papad was a treat. I couldn't recall the name of the place though. I forgot to note it down during the trip.

The route after lunch was a pleasant surprise. As we descended lower, we were again amidst lush forest of pine trees. We passed a beautiful valley with yellow green meadows landscaped into wide terraces. Abound with apple and apricot orchards. We made several stop to relish the beauty of the place.

We did more riding up and down the valley. Roads were bad and good. And soon it was getting dark but the end of the journey was still no where in sight. Sandy and Nadeem were still confused about the destination. As the sky dim, Sandy increased his speed. I freaked out. Darkness plus blind curves, a dangerous combination. And the bumps were killing me.

" Honey please drive a carefully." I said, curtly.

"I am still driving safely honey. It's getting late we need to drive faster." He replied.

" The bumps are hurting me so much." I said.

" A little more honey, only a little more. We are almost there." He said.His voice softening.

" Look at trees honey they are so beautiful. " He urged me gently.

" I have already seen so many trees today! " I snapped, unappeased. But he knows me. My mood improved slightly and soon we were joking around again. But my cheerfulness didn't last for long. Soon I was getting agitated again. We have been riding for more than twelve hours now and still I didn't see any end to the road ahead.

" Where are we fucking going? " I asked Sandy.

Nadeem was behind us and we stopped to wait for him. When he finally reached us Sandy told him that we should stop at Sunder Nagar only. It would take at least two more hours to ride to Kullu and it was already dark.

" Coco's getting desperate." He said. Nadeem looked at me and I felt like the biggest chicken shit again. I didn't want this. I didnt want to be the dead weight in the trip.I didn't want to be the cause of delay. I didn't want to be a spoiled princess. But It was just too impossible for me to ride anymore.

When we reached the town we checked in the nearest hotel we could found as it was too painful for me to walk. I was already very cranky and just wanted to slumped in bed .We all stayed in one room at the modest hotel in front of Satluj canal to save on hotel expense. From here on there won't be any privacy for me and Sandy until we reached Leh.